Mount Kenya Technical Climb. North Face Climb Batian 5199m (6-7 DAYS)-June To October.

After breakfast proceed across Ontulili river straight to Likii North River, to the top ridge and down to Mackinder’s Valley and Shipton’s Camp at 4200m. This is a 17 kms walk which takes 6-7 hrs, picnic lunch is served on the way. You have the option of staying in the hut, or sleep in your own tents. The tents offer a bit of privacy and quiet from the often busy hut. Either way, our cook will use the hut’s facilities and we will take our meals at tables and benches inside the hut..This Night you will be Joined by the Technical Guide/s and you will do a Briefing and a Kit/ Technical Gear Check.

Early Morning after Breakfast you have an acclimatization walk to point Lenana 4895m, Rest after Lunch and at 3pm climbing a short route on either Point Peter (this is also Technical) or Point Dutton, but you can also opt to rest and Spare the energy. In either case, you also prepare for the climb of Batian the following morning.

Ascent of Batian by the North Face Standard Route. Starting before dawn, usually between 4 and 5 am, you may climb the first couple of pitches by headlamp.  The route initially follows a wide contour which you ascend for some 7 pitches, never harder than 5.7. A bit of easy scrambling brings you to the Amphitheatre, a small basin of easy rock part way up the route. Ideally you arrive here by about 7.30am and enjoying a late “breakfast” and a short break. Above this is the crux of the route, Firmin’s Tower. There are about 3 difficult pitches, all fairly short, but all in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. Above this, easier terrain leads to a few more pitches and finally, the west ridge. From this point, you continue on easy, but still exposed, rock to Shipton’s Notch, a prominent gash in the summit ridge. Another pitch, then mixed 4th and easy 5th class rock leads to the airy summit of Batian. Descent is by the same route, with a few minor variations. If we are quick we can arrive back in Shipton’s Camp before evening dusk. If slow, we might not be able to go up and down the same day, hence, you may opt for overnight stay at the Top Hut about 5188m (Nelion).

After Spending the night at Shiptons, we will use the Chogoria route, because we believe it is the most Scenic on the Mountain. The trek out begins with a climb up to Simba Col (where porters once swore they saw a lion, hence the name) then a quick descent to the Hall Tarns. From here we follow the backbone of a ridge, overlooking the beautiful Gorges Valley. Loosing elevation we leave the high moorlands and enter into the forest belt which surrounds Mount Kenya. As we approach the rustic cabins of Meru Mount Kenya Lodge (our destination for the night) we are likely to see Cape Buffalo, as well as Bush Buck or Water Buck, and tracks of other wild animals. The Bandas, as the cabins are called, are a welcome luxury after our stay on the mountain. With hot showers (after the water is wood-fire heated) and a fine evening fire, we enjoy dinner and the thick, fragrant air of the jungly lower elevations. In the evening we can make a short hike with our guide, looking for additional wildlife and exploring the immediate area around our cabins.

There is a rough 4 wheel drive road which leads up to the Lodge. We may choose to hike the first hour or so, enjoying the thick bamboo forest. We often see elephant tracks, and signs of many other wild animals. After a bit of time, our Land Rover catches up with us, and we pile in and continue the drive to Chogoria town on the east side of Mount Kenya. Once on the main road, we switch to a more comfortable vehicle, for the additional 4 hours drive to Nairobi. Back to a Nairobi hotel we enjoy the comforts of civilization and a fine dinner.